Beware, New York: The Scandinavians are taking over. Fans of fine cuisine are probably familiar with Noma, Claus Meyer’s world-famous restaurant based in Copenhagen, Denmark. Rumours have persisted for some time that Noma would eventually land in New York, but why open one restaurant when you can open several? Inside Grand Central Terminal alone there’s the Agern restaurant, the Nordic marketplace of Vanderbilt Hall, and a frank stand.
The Agern restaurant is still buzzing with the shock of the new; it’s less than three years old, and the decor is decidedly modern. Sharp, clean lines greet you as you enter, punctuated by green chevron tiling and charcoal black leather banquettes, which soak up the illumination from the brass pendant lights overhead. With high ceilings but no windows, it’s a separate world from the hustle of the Terminal outside.
There are two types of menu here for two types of person; a vegetarian option at $120, or one which features meat at $145, both of which are à la carte and come from the imagination and talent of chef Gunnar Gisalson. If you’re new to Nordic food, have an awareness that vegetables are an essential staple, and so there’s a lot of crossover between the two menus.
Whichever way you go, you’ll be served a fine seven-course meal, from which our stand-outs are the beef-heart tartare and the rich, plump oysters. The bread that’s served as an accompaniment is baked in the kitchen and is delicious – just don’t go heavy on it if you want to finish your meal!
Michelin Stars: 1
Cuisine: Contemporary European
Address: Grand Central Terminal, 89 East 42nd Street
For a list of the very best eateries in town, check out our guide to all the Michelin star restaurants in New York.